16th March 2023
With the JR pass, one can also make use of the Miyajima ferry, where you can see a floating torii gate, from the temple, a bustling town and deer wandering free around the streets. From Hiroshima, near the Peace Park, we got the tram (not included in JR Pass) from Kamyacho-nishi and switched to the JR San-yo line at Yokogawa station from to Miyajimaguchi.
A short walk from the station is the port where the JR West Miyajima Ferry departs from to get to Itsukushima, alternatively known as Miyajima (‘Shrine Island’ in Japanese). The journey takes around 10 minutes to cross the Hiroshima Bay to get to the island and the ferries depart every 15 minutes, for most of the day. Timetable can be found here.
As soon as we disembarked from the ferry and exited the port building, we immediately spotted the mischievous deer strolling around. It was lovely to see them roaming freely around, one just has to be careful if you’ve food, we saw several incidents of people sat down and deer strolling up to them and taking food.
We also saw one trying to enter a shop, the shopkeeper was closing the doors to stop the deer, but the deer was quite persistent and trying to pry the doors open with its antlers. Up until 1637 the deer were protected and the punishment for killing one was death. They are said to be the messengers of the gods. I have read that they are still protected though I’m finding it difficult to find exactly how. They are considered sacred in the Shinto religion and its nice to see them living alongside humans.
The town nearest the port is a bustling tourist spot, with many picturesque and beautiful shops on Omotesando Street with interesting food and drink. We were on a bit of a tight schedule so didn’t stop for any food here but enjoyed soaking up the atmosphere as we wound our way to Itsukushima Shrine.
Itsukushima Shrine
The Shinto Shrine that has made this mountainous island so well known, dates from around 593AD, and has several supposed contributors to construction and patronage during its lifetime. It is dedicated to the three female deities of Shinto – Ichikishimahime no mikoto, Tagorihime no mikoto, and Tagitsuhime no Mikoto, three daughters of Susano-o no Mikoto. The shrine sits at the foot of the picturesque Mount Misen, built by the shore as the island itself is also believed to be a deity.
The Otorii gate stands 50 ft tall and at high tide sits in the water, appearing to float, and it built of camphor wood which resists decay. The current gate has been here since 1875, but the existence of a gate here dates way back to 1168. The torii gate is said to the boundary between spirits and the human world. It is a really beautiful sight.
Five Story Pagoda, Gojunoto
Above the Itsukushima Shrine a path will lead you up to the Five Story Pagoda. It can be viewed from afar as it stands at around 98 feet high.
The pagoda was built in 1407, as seems to be the case with a lot of traditional Japanese architecture, there are so many beautiful elements and details to gaze up at. It is dedicated to the Buddha of Medicine.
By the time we were heading back to the mainland, the sun was setting and it was an incredible to see the Torii gate in the water and the mountains in the background. A short but special trip to this sacred island.
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