What we did in Moalboal & Ronda, Cebu, December 2022

21st – 26th December 2022

Where we Stayed:

Les Maisons D’Itac

Santa Cruz Rd, Ronda, 6034 Cebu, Philippines

We were excited to book and stay in the beautiful bamboo house – Maison Ulysse, part of Les Maisons D’Itac. Situated in the rural and quiet part of Cebu on the west coast, 2-3 hours drive from Cebu city and half an hour from Moalboal. Set right on the ocean, Les Maisons D’Itac has stunning views across to the neighbouring island, staff were friendly, the gardens were beautiful, and we were well looked after. The staff fed us tasty breakfasts and dinner, were able to arrange massages for us, organised mopeds for us and transfer to and from Cebu city.

Maison Ulysse a traditional bamboo dwelling with , sleeping space and gorgeous bathroom elevated on the first floor, with a dining table, sofa and loungers on the ground floor.  Attention to detail was evident in the decorations and embellishments around the accommodation. The double four poster bed was huge and surrounded by a very useful mosquito net. The bathroom was modern, beautiful and had all facilities, including running water and a very relaxing shower.

The rest of the facilities included a plunge pool, dining area and we had a little kayak too, which Oliver took out one morning and enjoyed.

Around the property was an abundance of local wildlife, it was beautifully quiet and impeccably maintained and when the tide was out in the morning, the absence of the water revealed on the seabed the most otherworldly soft coral creatures and starfish, it was the most incredible sight!

Following on from the weather warnings we had on Palawan, the first night was a bit breezy and then the second night there was a storm. As the evening drew in, there was a rustling breeze. At around 11pm, Oliver had already fallen asleep but I was awake watching the curtains billow into the room and I could hear the water crashing in the sea. We then had a rap at the door and the lovely owner asked if we would like to evacuate as the water had come so far in it was washing up into the ground floor of the house. So we waded ankle deep and were escorted across to the lovely Villa Presito next door where the room was further back from the sea. We stayed in Villa Presito for the next few nights, as the stormy weather continued. The two accommodations have a shared seafront and whilst we breakfasted on the veranda of Villa Presito, the Les Maisons staff continued to take excellent care of us and served us our food there. So whilst we were disappointed to not have been able to stay in Maison Ulysse for the time we’d booked, it showed the incredible hospitality, organisation and care the staff have.   

White Beach Moalboal

We visited the White Beach in Moalboal, as we’d read good things. It was quite crowded and there was a bit of litter around. Here you can do scuba diving with the sardines. There were a lot of people trying to sell us things and it meant we weren’t really able to relax that much! I imagine it might be different in different times. I enjoyed the cat and fungi!

Canyoneering in Kawasan Falls

Santander – Barili – Toledo Rd, Badian, 6031 Cebu, Philippines

One of the main reasons we had wanted to come to this area was to try the famous canyoneering in Kawasan Falls. We booked an organised tour that picked us up in a jeepney from Moalboal and once we had collected the full party, the jeepney travelled to the orientation area, about half an hour away to get fitted into our life vests, and helmets, store any unnecessary bags in a secure lock up area, sign a waiver and collect our friendly guides. We were then driven to the start of the trail at Barangay Sulsogan, Badian. That leads towards the start of the canyon. Before we set off on to the trail we were given a talk along with other groups about the safe way of jumping, what to do and what not to do.

We had seen lots of Youtubers doing the falls, from planning this trip for a good few years. After typhoon Odette of December 2021 which took many lives and destroyed homes, the landscape of the series of falls was also changed. It was interesting to see the differences and also take in the incredible power of nature to topple rocks and cliffs.

The guides in the group were fantastic, encouraging us, looking after us, and even filmed and took photos for us on Oliver’s GoPro. The guides were from the local towns and there dexterity navigating the canyons and falls just blew me away. I had hesitations doing some of the jumps, especially after I had a little slip on one of them. The swiftness with which one of the guides jumped in after me and kept checking in on me afterwards made me feel like I was in good hands – I was fine and I actually didn’t even realised I’d slipped until seeing the video afterwards!

The end of the trail and jumps led us to the Kawasan fall. Behind the majesty of this huge waterfall, it was here that the destruction of the typhoon was most overt. A tiled floor of what used to belong to a restaurant now slides into the water, exposing rebar and layers of construction materials. It was a moment of humility to see this and to see the recovery and the economy from the canyoneering tours still carrying on (and safely).     

We scrambled, we jumped, we laughed, we applauded others, it was a really good adventure full of camaraderie not just within our own group but group to group, too. There was even a young girl jumping as if it was nothing. It was just a brilliant experience. I got wobbly at times but overcame it, and didn’t feel forced to do anything I wasn’t able to. It was really an experience to remember and an experience of a lifetime. And afterwards we were taken to a local café for a bite to eat and there were vegan options including rice, okra and vegetable curry!

Wandering in Moalboal

Moalboal is a lovely bustling town with lots of places to stay, places to eat and drink, spas, rocky beach and gorgeous nature too. Just wandering in the area was a nice way to spend an afternoon.

We had a great time on this part of our stay. Canyoneering is something I will never forget, I loved where we stayed, the wildlife is something I will never forget and the hospitality, second to none.  

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