Part 1: What we did in Osaka, Japan, March 2023

17^th – 19^th March 2023

An early morning start, from Hiroshima we caught the Shinkansen at 08:11 back east to Shin-Osaka station arriving at 09:38, and then from Shin-Osaka station to Osaka station. We then used the metro lines to get to the nearest station to our hotel which was Kintetsu-Nippombashi Station. The local metro was not included in the JR Pass, and we decided to get an IC card at this point on our travels, which is a top up card that can be used at shops and on local transport too. Most can be used around different cities, with some rare exceptions, so check before purchasing.

Dotombori Shinsaibashi Hotel

Approx €72 a night for a twin Japanese-style room

We stayed in the Dotombori Shinsaibashi Hotel. It is in a great location for Dotonbori – the iconic area with automatons above restaurants, the Glico running man and arcades. The closest metro stations are Kintetsu-Nippombashi Station which is a 3 minute walk away, or Namba station which is a 12 minute walk away.

The room was spacious with tatami mats, futons and a small fridge. We had a private bathroom too, with a small, deep bath. It was a very comfortable room. Rooms with western style beds are also available. The only downside to this hotel is that there is no left luggage facility at this hotel, and everything is done digitally – so no human staff to speak to. We did find lockers just off Dotonbori, but it would have been better if we could have left our luggage at the hotel.

Dotonbori

Osaka

Dotonbori runs along the Dotonbori canal and is a bustling, lively street full of restaurants, bars, stalls, neon lights and mechanised icons above restaurants such as the Kani Doraku crab. Lots of local food is on offer, from okonomiyaki, Takoyaki and kitsune udon. There’s also the famous Glico running man, dating way back to 1935 to advertise Glico candy.  It gets busy as the afternoon starts and really came alive in the evening.

One of my favourite moments was coming across an accordion player in a wolf mask playing Johnny B Goode. There are also ‘friend’ bars, which was a new concept for me! Walking end to end you can soak up the atmosphere and see the sights and enjoy the neon and bustle.

Round1 Stadium

1-3-1, Namba, Chuo-ku Osaka-shi, Osaka

Just near Dotonbori is Round1 Stadium, part of a chain of large arcades which has darts, sports, karaoke, bowling and amusement machines. It has now less than 11 floors. We had a great time playing on various arcade games, both modern and retro. I’ve never seen such a massive selection!

Osaka Castle Museum

Osakajo, Chuo Ward, Osaka, 540-0002, Japan

https://www.osakacastle.net/

Admission: ¥600

Osaka Castle was first built between 1583 and finished in 1597 by Toyotomi Hideyoshi, a samurai and feudal lord who wanted to build a castle that was bigger and better than his rival’s – Oda Nobunaga who built Azuchi Castle. Osaka Castle was planned to have 5 stories and 3 underground stories. A year before the Castle was complete, Toyotomi Hideyoshi died and passed it to his son Toyotomi Hideyori. The Siege of Osaka, began in 1614, when Tokugawa Ieyasu attacked the Castle. Miraculously, despite being outnumbered, Hideyoshi managed to fight off the large army, but unfortunately, in 1615, they attacked again, and Hideyoshi’s clan was defeated.

Tokugawa Ieyasu, took over from Tokugawa Hideta, reinforced the Castle in the 1620s, and some of these are still here, to date the castle has had many incidents and has formed a key part of Japan’s history and its unification. In 1995, it was restored to its look in the Edo-era and as such is a replica of what was once there and works as a functioning museum. It tells the fascinating story of its own history and thus the effect its history has on the rest of Japan, uniquely told in holograms in tableaus. There are 8 floors, which also house various pieces of history such as armour of important characters in the history, and screens, depicting incredible detail of the battles and scenes.

As well as this, you can make your way right up to the roof and have the most incredible views of the city, overlooking the moat and to the surrounding mountains.

In the grounds are beautiful cherry trees, plum grove and other interesting parts of the fort. We also happened upon the Shudokan where a Kendo demonstration was taking place. Even though this is a replica, there are still many original features and gives a flavour of the complex and unique history of Japan. An incredible place to visit.

Osaka Museum of History

4 Chome-1-32 Otemae, Chuo Ward, Osaka, 540-0008, Japan

https://www.osakamushis.jp/eng/

Admission: ¥600

Due to the rain and our tired feet, we spontaneously visited the Osaka Museum of History just across the moat from Osaka Castle Museum. It was absolutely something else. I’m so glad we went. Each floor took a different era of Japan, starting with the Ancient Period, complete with a life size reconstruction of the Daigokuden of Naniwa Palace from the Nara Period, in the 7^th Century.

4 other floors take you through a journey of Osaka’s history with dioramas, artefacts, and entire replicas of streets and rooms up until ‘The Age of Greater Osaka’ in the modern and contemporary era, described as being on the ‘eve of what we know now’. There is also a special exhibition room with changing exhibitions and in the basement (though we missed this!) the archaeological remains of part of the Naniwa-Nagara-Toyosaki Palace.

Through the panoramic windows, there was a great view of the White Castle and former archaeological sites. I’m so glad we came to see this gem, it’s a museum that is really alive with the history its telling.

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